There is something extraordinary about the Drakensberg mountains. Their beauty is so mesmerising that those who have been always return, and those yet to go wait in anticipation. Huddled within the rugged mountain range, the Amphitheatre rises majestically—a natural colossus that lures adventurers from across the globe. Situated in the northern part of the Drakensberg and forming part of the Royal Natal National Park, the Amphitheatre is a striking natural wonder. The towering cliffs, panoramic views, and pristine wilderness make it a sacred pilgrimage for avid hikers and campers. But more than just a marvel of geological artistry, the Amphitheatre is the gateway to Tugela Falls, Africa's highest waterfall and the tallest waterfall in the world.
When the Mountains Call
The trail begins about four hours from Johannesburg. Travellers are advised to spend the night at Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge and, in the morning, arrange transport to the Sentinel car park. The hike’s starting point. This is where expert mountain guides from Far South Tours will lead you along the dirt path, winding through the grassy foothills. With every bend in the trail, the grandeur of the Drakensberg reveals itself—ancient rock formations standing like silent sentinels. As the hike progresses, the chatter of fellow hikers gradually fades away, leaving only the sound of your steps and nature. This is where the magic of hiking really kicks in.
At first, the climb is gentle, lulling first-timers into a false sense of ease. But soon enough, the terrain demands respect. We encountered the infamous chain ladders, a part of the daunting and exhilarating hike. Hikers waited patiently at the foot while our master guide from Far South Tours assured us of their safety. The vertical iron ladders cling to the cliff face; climbing them isn't for the faint-hearted. Between the ladders and The Gully, I'd choose the ladders any day. Each rung brought us closer to the sky, and the ground below fell away until it disappeared in the mist. Along the way, we encountered a cave that could sleep up to six campers. It's an otherworldly experience for the first group lucky enough to claim it.
Reaching for the Top
Summiting the Amphitheatre never gets old. No matter how many times you've been, there's always something new to take in. The plateau offers views stretching forever at 2,972 metres above sea level. Above the roar of Tugela Falls, the air is crisp, thin, and wild. The panorama wraps you in a dream, making you forget about the challenging descent ahead. As the sun started its slow descent, we set up camp on the plateau near the falls' edge.
Camping on Top of the World
Camping at the top of Tugela Falls? It's one of those "you had to be there" moments. The Tugela River, calm and serene at the plateau, suddenly plummets over the edge to create this magnificent waterfall. The water is crystal clear and freezing cold. Snow isn't uncommon in winter, so hikers must be ready for all kinds of weather. If you're like me and live for sunsets, the reward at the end of the day is stunning: the sky explodes into shades of orange, pink, and violet. As twilight settled in, the sun cast long shadows across the plateau, lighting the horizon in a fiery glow.
We arrived just before the winds became too wild. With the help of hikers we'd met along the way, we quickly set up our tent. The night was as cold as we expected, but the warmth of our coffee mugs and the shared stories made up for it.
When darkness finally enveloped us, a quiet peace settled over the mountains. Just a stone's throw away, the falls roared softly, a gentle reminder of nature's constant energy. Above us, the night sky turned into a blanket of stars, so bright and close it felt like we could reach out and touch them. Lying under that celestial blanket, each of us quietly connected with nature.
Waking up atop the World's Highest Waterfall
The first light of dawn? Pure magic. The sun slowly rises, and the whole landscape is suddenly bathed in golden light, with the mist from the falls shimmering in the morning glow. Nothing really prepares you for a sunrise like this. The soft morning light, crisp air, birds singing in the distance—it all feels surreal, like nature's own symphony. The chill of the night was replaced with the sun's warmth, marking the start of our bittersweet descent. Whether or not you catch a perfect sunrise depends on luck. The morning mist can be so thick that the sunrise comes and goes without a glimpse. But even if you miss the sunrise, the views of the sentinels and waterfall are enough to make it worth your while.
The Descent
Heading back down was far less challenging than the climb but just as rewarding. We were again reminded of the beauty and tranquillity we experienced that morning. While the trail had its tough moments, the reward—a night under the stars at the edge of the world—made it all worthwhile.
The Tugela Falls hike isn't easy, and you'll need a decent fitness level to enjoy it comfortably. Being prepared is vital to having a safe and fun trip, and with Far South Tours, you're in good hands. Their guides have decades of experience hiking the Drakensberg. If you ever find yourself in the Drakensberg, this hike to the top of Tugela Falls should be at the top of your bucket list. And the best part? Hikers get an opportunity to support the Nkanyezi Youth Camp initiative dedicated to helping young people from the local community learn, grow and succeed through outdoor experiences.
Main image by Lenka Znamenackova.
